August 1, 2021

Professional

Can Stella McCartney Clean Up Fashion? | BoF Professional, News & Analysis

“We are literally getting away with murder,” Stella McCartney said through her computer screen. A week earlier, she’d delivered this message to a group of the world’s most powerful leaders at the G7 summit in Cornwall, England.

The designer’s pitch was simple: government regulators and policy-makers need to stop giving fashion a pass. Instead, they should treat it like the automotive sector or any other big, heavily polluting industry, with tougher oversight and stronger incentives to reduce environmental impact.

“There needs to be policies set in place to police our industry,” McCartney said. “Certainly the industry has fallen short …

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Why Everyone’s Launching Designer Kidswear | BoF Professional, News & Analysis

Designer fashion brands have always catered to the cool kids, but that audience is getting younger and younger.

In the last month, Rejina Pyo and Fear of God both launched childrenswear. Self-Portrait, known for its lace party dresses, dropped its first kids collection Wednesday, and London-based luxury e-tailer Browns will launch an assortment of children’s clothes featuring more than 35 brands in July.

E-commerce platform SSENSE has dropped two exclusive sets of kids capsule collections since the beginning of May and has plans to roll out kidswear from 80 brands over the coming year. Mini-me pieces are already available from

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What’s Next for LVMH’s Fashion Group | BoF Professional, News & Analysis

Until recently, you could count the number of notable disposals by LVMH on one hand: Christian Lacroix, Donna Karan, Michael Kors (in which it owned a 33 percent stake) and the Edun ethical fashion label founded with singer Bono were among the few projects the luxury giant had scrapped rather than hoarding them in its stable of 75 brands.

But since the pandemic, changes at the French luxury group’s portfolio of smaller labels have been coming at a clip. The group cut loose shoemaker Nicholas Kirkwood last fall, put its Fenty fashion startup with Rihanna on indefinite pause, and ceased

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Chanel’s Last Virtual Fashion Show? | The Week Ahead, BoF Professional

VIRTUAL REALITY CHECK

  • Chanel will hold a virtual cruise show on May 4, staged in the south of France

  • Dior is planning a show in Greece in June, but has not yet said whether it will feature a live audience.

  • Fashion weeks in New York and Europe are likely to include plenty of physical events in September, after three mostly virtual seasons

Chanel’s cruise show in June 2020 encapsulated everything that was strange and a bit unsettling about the new pandemic reality, at least within the rarified world of luxury fashion. The presentation was the first by a large brand

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Dowry Disputes Entangle Fashion Designers | BoF Professional, News & Analysis

Bridal fashion shows are, for the most part, about creating a fantasy around a beautiful bride in a spectacular gown on her perfect day. For bridal designers the world over, success in selling this fantasy is key to the bottom line for their business.

Clients’ expectations to see positive, aspirational imagery explain why Pakistani bridal designer, Ali Xeeshan, surprised many earlier this year when he released a fashion film on Instagram to promote his latest collection of bridal couture, in which the “bride,” a child model wearing an ornate red wedding gown, has tears running down her face as she

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The Limits of Virtual Fashion | BoF Professional, News & Analysis

This month, fashion brands RTFKT and The Fabricant collaborated on a line of earrings, sneakers and formal wear. Priced between $20 to $10,000, the collection was sold on the online marketplace Dematerialised, which had over 3,000 users register for access to the drop.

In under 15 minutes, the entire collection sold out, a familiar anecdote in the age of streetwear. RTFKT and The Fabricant’s collection, however, was entirely virtual, meaning all the garments produced, as well as the fashion houses and the retailer that supported them, exist solely in the digital fashion realm. The pieces were issued as non-fungible tokens,

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Revenge Shopping vs Sustainability: Fashion Can’t Have Both | This Week in Fashion, BoF Professional

Climate-positive sweatsuits, circular sneakers and organic capsules. Fashion’s sustainability marketing became a frenzy with Earth Day this week. But this messaging jostled for attention alongside equally breathless predictions of a roaring resurgence in post-pandemic consumption.

Stores reopened in England last week to queuing crowds, which propelled the likes of Primark to record sales. In the US, retailers are on a hiring binge in anticipation of a major bounce back, while a strong rebound in demand in China continues to underpin the market.

Some brands are already reaping the benefits. LVMH saw sales from its fashion division jump 37 percent in

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Jonathan Anderson’s Radical Fashion Experiment Is Over (Almost) | BoF Professional, Tim’s Take, Opinion

“I will never go back to the way my mind was before all this,” said Jonathan Anderson, speaking to me, but also speaking for many of us, via Zoom, our new medium of choice as the world changes in deep and as yet unknowable ways. This is usually the time of year when fashion brands lay out their wares for the key autumn/winter selling season. In other words, shows. Not now. The virus put a stop to that.

A year in and it’s proving to be highly unpredictable. Fashion’s future is a seesaw.

I’ve had two long conversations with

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OTB Buys Jil Sander as Fashion M&A Heats Up | BoF Professional, News & Analysis

Italian fashion group OTB said Friday it will acquire Jil Sander from Japanese conglomerate Onward Holdings for an undisclosed sum, part of wider growth ambitions as the Diesel-owner seeks to bolster its luxury portfolio.

Luke and Lucie Meier, the creative-director duo who have designed Jil Sander since 2017, will remain in place following the deal, OTB’s president and controlling shareholder Renzo Rosso said.

The deal-making is part of a wider strategy to diversify OTB’s holdings and expand the group’s presence in high-end apparel, as its core brand Diesel struggles to regain momentum. In addition to owning the luxury labels Marni

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